Some Pictures. . . . .

The connection is so slow here in Patras, but you can look at a few photos at:

http://homepage.mac.com/tvp/PhotoAlbum2.html

You might have to cut and paste the address into your browser . . .

Athens . . . . .

I'll be traveling to Athens in a couple of days. It will be hard to post anymore until I return .. . . but I can still view your comments!

The Ancient Epidaurus Theater, Monday, June 14

We stopped at the Ancient Epidaurus Theater today. WOW! This was so amazing to see!

The theater was built at the end of the 4th-beginning of the 3rd century Before Christ. I’ve seen Greek theaters before, but this one is HUGE! You can actually hear an actor whisper on the stage from the top row of the theater.

Hydra - Saturday-Sunday, June 12-13

We decided to take a side trip with Nikos and Efie to Hydra for the weekend. Hydra is a very cool island because it is close to Athens and therefore attracts a lot of jet-set party people looking for a quieter alternative to Mykonos. It was once a refuge for Greek aristocrats avoiding Turkish occupation.

There are no cars on Hydra, the only way to get around is to walk, ride a mule, or take a water taxi. We stayed at a small hotel about a 2-minute walk from the port. The island has a different charm about it because the buildings are not all white and blue as they are on so many other islands. They have a classical quality with tile roofs and stone walls. Hydra’s small port is bustling with private yachts and fishing boats. On the shore there are bars and cafes everywhere.


The highlight of the weekend was sipping mojitos at the Sunset bar perched on the cliffs overlooking the sea. There are several terraces where there are so many sunbathers hanging out that it is more of a beach club than a bar. It was a great afternoon. Nikos and I swam in the cobalt blue sea clear enough to see our toes but too deep to see the bottom.

Hydra - Saturday-Sunday, June 12-13

We decided to take a side trip with Nikos and Efie to Hydra for the weekend. Hydra is a very cool island because it is close to Athens and therefore attracts a lot of jet-set party people looking for a quieter alternative to Mykonos. It was once a refuge for Greek aristocrats avoiding Turkish occupation.

There are no cars on Hydra, the only way to get around is to walk, ride a mule, or take a water taxi. We stayed at a small hotel about a 2-minute walk from the port. The island has a different charm about it because the buildings are not all white and blue as they are on so many other islands. They have a classical quality with tile roofs and stone walls. Hydra’s small port is bustling with private yachts and fishing boats. On the shore there are bars and cafes everywhere.


The highlight of the weekend was sipping mojitos at the Sunset bar perched on the cliffs overlooking the sea. There are several terraces where there are so many sunbathers hanging out that it is more of a beach club than a bar. It was a great afternoon. Nikos and I swam in the cobalt blue sea clear enough to see our toes but too deep to see the bottom.

How To Drive In Greece

There are several rules to driving in Greece here is a short list of rules I've learned while driving here:

- A red octagon shaped sign with the word “stop” clearly written inside of it means GO.

- The shoulder is a lane just like any other; use it.

- There is no reason not to speed, so pass often and anytime you want.

- The driver you just passed uses these same rules. He will now speed up and pass you. Pass him again for fun.

- The large yellow detailed maps of Greece along the road are a funny way to lighten up your trip. Even if you could read Greek, would you be able to slow down to read them?

- If you see a car driving towards you in your lane, ask yourself why the hell you are not in the shoulder like everyone else.

- “Malakas” is a word often used when driving in Greece.

- Cows, Goats, Mules and Sheep are vehicles too. When you see them in the road it is Rush Hour in Greece.

- Take advantage of the fact that they serve alcohol at rest stops.

Olympia - Friday, June 11th

I feel very lucky to have been able to see some amazing places and cities around the world. Olympia is a place that humbled me and gave me several moments of quiet reflection.

Olympia is a very spiritual place and as I walked through the ruins I, like everyone else there wanted to be quiet and still. The site where the Olympic torch was first lit, and continues to be lit, the stadium, the temples, the Corinthian columns, the homes, the gymnasium etc are incredible.

It is the images of Greek Olympiads running naked through the stadium that finally brought a word to my lips.

YUM!

Among the thousands of artifacts, I was most excited to be able to see The Hermes of Praxitelus at the Olympia Museum. It is one of my favorite sculptures and to see it in person was a highlight of my trip to Olympia.

Enjoying the Greek Lifestyle, Tuesday - Thursday, June 8-10

So far it’s been a great trip! We’ve seen so many things and we have so much more planned. We’ve been relaxing at home, enjoying the water in Arakovitika and the beaches in Rio and Agios Vasilios. Andreas’ mom is an awesome cook and we have had several meals sitting on the patio with the entire family. Little Andreas is adorable and so much fun. We’ve made several trips into Patras.

The Greek lifestyle is wonderful. Offices and shops are open 10 – 2, and then close until 5 when they reopen until 9. In the meantime, people take naps, go to the beach, go to the square, or take part in the national pastime, sitting at a café enjoying a Frappe’. The Greeks really know how to eat and eat well. If you like Greek Salads then you will love it here. Choosing a restaurant is fairly easy, no need to look at a menu, they all serve exactly the same things with only very slight variations.

A Trip To Athens and the Corinthian Canal, Monday, June 7th

Today I drove with Nikos to Athens. While he worked, I explored Kifisia, a neighborhood outside of the center of the city. It is very nice, with a large area devoted to expensive shopping.

On our way out of Athens we passed by the beautiful new Olympic stadium. It is enormous and incredibly modern. Nearby the stadium is a large section of partially constructed buildings, their frameworks and roofless skeletons rising 3 – 5 stories into the sky, I told Nikos how awesome it all was to see all this growth in Athens. It appeared as if a whole new neighborhood of homes was being built and in fact it was. This area was to become the Olympic Village. I’m not sure how it will be completed by next month, but I understand they are working around the clock to complete it. On this day, however, there are no construction workers around.

The road back to Patras is beautiful. There is a modern highway that runs high along the water, and the old National Road that runs closer to the waters edge. We are taking the older road. Looking out at the deep blue water there are several islands and many ships. As we curve along the side of a mountain, a large bay comes into view and many ships are lined up one after behind the other.

Nikos pulls the car over to the side of the road, and we walk to a small ordinary looking bridge with railings that are only waist high. It does not look like a bridge, because it is level with the road and the land. However, as we walk towards it, a large gap in the land becomes obvious. It is the Isthmos Canal, or Corinthian Canal.

It’s hard to explain just how immense and deep the Corinthian Canal is. It seemingly appears out of nowhere because the walls drop 90 degrees straight down on either side and the land is so flat. I now realize that the ships we saw are lined up waiting for their turn to pass from the Saronikos Gulf to the Korinthiakos Gulf of the Ionian. The canal is only wide enough for one ship at a time. Standing on the bridge is a bit daunting. The narrow width of the canal combined with its deepness gives one the sense of vertigo. It’s an awesome sight.

An American Traveling Abroad - Monday, June 7

Several people in Greece have asked me how I feel about Reagan’s passing. It’s a funny thing to be abroad these days what with the overwhelming hatred of Bush in Europe.

Still, I am very happy to hear that while I am away, our current president has finally agreed to allow Americans to see a flag-draped coffin and a military funeral, even if it is for Reagan.

Baptism - Sunday, June 6th

The patron saints of Greece, Armani, Prada, Gucci, Dolce and Gabanna have gathered at a modest hillside church for the baptism of little Andreas.

The church is beautiful and the view of the Ionian and the villages below is spectacular. At any moment I expect to see a blue runway roll out from the tiny church doors so that the women and men attending the ceremony can hop up and show off their designer fashion offerings to the Greek gods.

Even little Andreas is dressed to the nines in Dolce and Gabana.

It’s back to reality though. I see a Greek Orthodox Priest and the true reason we are here sinks in. He is very serious. You would be too if you had not shaved for 50 years and had to continually wear long black clothing in this heat.

We barely fit inside, and the ceremony begins. Andreas, (the big one) is the Godfather! I never fully understood why he was so nervous, but I am about to find out.

After at least a 1/2 hour of Greek Orthodox prayers, some of which Andreas must read aloud, we are ready for the baby to be baptized. Well, every that is, except me.

Big Andreas has a nervous grin on his face as he is handed a naked Andreas and we gather around a deep basin that has been blessed several times. The priest says more prayers and blesses the Fashionistas surrounding the basin. Andreas, Nikos and Efie kiss the icon the priest is holding. The small children carry the huge baptism candle dangerously close to their faces, and the priest shushes them all into fearful silence. Luckily for big Andreas, there is another godfather there to help him through the ceremony, but he looks just as terrified.


The priest rolls up his sleeves and the 2nd godfather follows his lead. Andreas is still smiling, but little Andreas begins to scream as he is dangled above the basin.

The priest voice raises 4 octaves to an almost yell as he prays and picks up a bottle filled with at least 2 cups of olive oil. There is a dead silence as he pours this oil all over little Andreas’ head as he screams, of course, in fear. The 2nd godfather does his best to keep the oil out of the baby’s eyes and big Andreas looks a little whoozy as he does his best not to let Andreas slip from his hands.

Suddenly, the baby is plucked from Andrea’s arms and the priest is dangling him above the water. He places Andreas in the basin holding him upright with one arm while his hand is on top of the baby’s head. Without much gentleness, the priest pushes Andreas head and body completely under the water holding him there for at least 10 seconds while he wails more prayers at the top of his lungs. Everyone is smiling, except me. I feel a bit nauseous and scared as little Andreas is lifted out of the basin, covered in water and olive oil and is handed back to big Andreas. His cries, chokes, and gasps for air have me blessing myself over and over and wishing I had worn something better than Banana Republic to this sacred event.

Back at home for the party I drink a glass of ouzo and finally relax. We have amazing Greek food and it’s a great party that lasts until the early evening. It’s a beautiful day and the water is an impossibly deep blue. I get to meet the president of Greece’s son, Iliias and other who’s who of Greece, but I don’t think I will be attending another Greek Baptism for a long, long time.

Patras, The Cultural Capital of Greece - Saturday, June 5th

In 2006, Patras will officially be designated one of the Cultural Capital’s of Europe. It’s a rotating honor that is bestowed upon a different European city each year. When I asked, no one seemed sure exactly sure how Patras was chosen.

Still, this evening we are attending, in preparation of the honor, a jazz festival in the courtyard of the old hospital in Patras. Since closing years ago, the beautiful neoclassical building has been transformed into a civic building. It is situated in the neighborhood bordering the castle, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Patras, Uptown. It is a quite neighborhood, and the homes are fairly well maintained and there are views of the city around every corner.

Mari and Giorgos join us and we enter a huge courtyard where a small stage has been set up in a corner. Rows of wooden chairs face the stage, however we decide to sit on stairs overlooking the entire scene. The festival is a 2 day event Last night there were two bands playing, one from Poland and one from Italy. Tonight we are seeing a jazz band from Sweden, “The Torbjoern Zetterberg Hot Five” and a rock/jazz band from France, Carte a’ 4 Unit. As people take their seats, I am realizing that the first band goes on at 10, and we have not had dinner. My stomach is growling; I’m starving!

Mari and I make a quick dash to an amazing restaurant that where we have eaten a year or two ago in the winter. We quickly order lemon juice and vodka in a plastic cup and a cup or two of peanuts. Others have had the same idea. We run back and take our seats.

There are several moments of awkward silence when the leader of the Swedish band proclaims Patras “the best city in Greece”. It seems that the people in Patras have taken this as a cruel joke and the citizens do not applaud his words. How can the citizens of Patras not have more pride in their own city? I feel as if they betray her by not applauding. The bandleader desperately tries to backpedal saying, “the WOMEN in Patras are the most beautiful women in Greece”. The audience finally applauds and we are back on track. For the next 2 1/2 hours we hear some amazing Jazz with some added percussion of stomachs growling with hunger.

We all head back to the restaurant. By 3:00 am we are refueled and ready to continue partying. We can’t though. In a few hours little Andreas’ will be Baptized! Just in time, Nikos arrives and we all share a final drink and head back to Arachovitika.

Special note . .

I did not expect that the internet connections would be so slow in Greece. Because of this, I am not posting pictures until I return to the States.

Out On The Town - Friday, June 4th

Today we spent the day in Patras, shopping for a washer and dryer and, of course eating and café hoping. My favorite café in Patras has an amazing hot chocolate that is as thick as pudding. It is so delicious that even though it is 80 degrees, this is my craving and I meet it.

After shopping and lunch, Andreas and I explore the city. I am always amazed that people can live, or be from a city, and not take advantage of all of the amazing sites. Andreas gets a sense of pride as I repeatedly tell him how cool the city is. We walk to the ancient Roman Theater where there are plays and concerts still performed. There are mosaic floors from ancient homes surrounding the theater and pieces of ruins all around. Some are museum quality pieces, and I surprised that they are just left out in the open. Then again, seeing antiquities in Greece is common. In Patras, there are several excavation sites between homes and shops. One such site looks like a junk shop, only the junk is statues and Corinthian columns. It looks as though they are piled without rhyme or reason, as if we were looking at the front yard of Sanford and Son. People walk by without noticing, and an elderly woman (Ya Ya) stares in disbelief that a guy would actually take a picture of a junk yard. But I do.

We continue to climb to the top of old Patras, which lies directly beneath a huge Venetian castle. This part of town looks like a village in the Greek Islands. As we walk up and down stairways and along narrow streets with whitewashed stone homes, we cross the paths of several ducks, sheep, and a Ya Ya or two. The views are amazing. When I see a taxi, we grab it, as we can barely climb another stair. Back to Arachovitika to rest, because tonight we are partying with Mari and Giorgos.

We meet Mari and Giorgos back in Patras for our 10:30 dinner reservation. We have a great time and Andreas can barely stand up by the end of the night. Who knew that drinking a bottle of Grappa can do this to a person? Evidently not Andreas. We have a great time laughing and eating and singing a song or two. No broken plates, this is not that kind of a Greek place. There are beautiful women and handsome men (did someone say Dark and Curly? YUM!) all around. It's a warm night and we are enjoying ourselve immensely. I love Mari’s laugh and we hear it all night long. "Har hah HAR, HAH HAR"! Andreas is Andreas, and we are all laughing our asses off at his sillyness/rudeness. Grace, if you were here you would have learned to say HOW RUDE in Greek several times by now. For the record, it's "Ti Agenes!" Har Har!

Patras - Thursday, June 3rd

Patras is a city with a lot of potential, but not a lot of money to do it with. In the early 1900’s it was a beautiful city full of neoclassical architecture. In the 60’s, however, a lot of these building were torn down and replaced with horrible high-rises that today look shabby and dilapidated. Patras is a port city, and there are several huge ships always docked here, along with Ferry's that travel to the islands of the Ionian and to Italy. I am immediately aware that large surveillance cameras have been installed all along the port to deter terrorism during the Olympics. Although the city looks run down, there are chic stores and cafes that are amazing. There are several squares and parks that have seen better days. The Euro is, of course, way more valuable than a US Dollar right now, and this has limited our shopping spree. Still, we need a few things for the house, and we are on a mission to find them. On our travels we stop by Mari’s store, and Nikos office, and Giorgos shop. We plan to meet for lunch at 2:30 when everything closes until 5. I love Patras. It has a certain charm and the people are really friendly. Lunch is amazing. We meet at a new restaurant that has only organic food. We dine on Pureed Fava Beans with sun-dried tomatoes, Gnocchi, Roast Pork, and an amazing Spinach salad with olive oil, orange, mizithra cheese, dill and pine nuts. We are now exhausted, and return home with full stomachs.

After resting again, we wake and meet at Nikos’ and Efies’ for wine and dinner. It is almost midnight. We have several bottles of wine, fresh eggs from this afternoon, a greek salad, a vegetable dish similar to Giambaut, and, of course, a large 5 lbs slab of Feta. Is there a theme here? Good night.

Roll Call and Late Night Dining, Androutsellis Style - Wednesday, June 2nd

Arachovitika is on the Ionian Sea, northeast of Patras, the 3rd largest city in Greece. Patras is the city where Andreas was born and his family still lives.

Arachovitika is a rural suburb of Patras situated between two fairly large villages, Rio and Agios Vasillios. Both of these villages remind me of the Greek Islands because each has cafes and restaurants along their shores that are packed with vacationers during the summer months.

One of the nicest thing about the house in Arachovitika is that the property is secluded and has it’s own beach. Still, it can feel like we are in a small village because our home is part of the Androutsellis Compound and we are awaken by Andrea’s mother calling . . . . . “Andrea?” “Andrea!”

There is a new suspension bridge being built connecting Rio with Antirio, across what is basically a gulf in the Ionian. From the house, we have a spectacular view of the bridge and this morning we have our first real look at it. There are four towers connected by the suspension cables and from our angle, the bridge reminds me of four huge sailboats crossing the Ionian.

During the day, we settle into our home removing the plastic covers from the furniture and dusting away the spiders that have moved in over the winter. Efie takes us shopping for groceries, one of my favorite things to do in any foreign country because you can really get a sense of the culture through food. Can a supermarket really have an isle devoted to yogurt and another to Feta? Yes, it can.

Back at home, we unpack our groceries and allow our jet lag to kick in full force. Time for a nap, and I mean a LONG nap. We awake at 8:00 pm, take showers and regroup. Dinner is in 3 hours!

Andreas’ mom is preparing dinner for the family and we are having appetizers with Niko’s, Efie, and Andreas’ dad, Spyros, and his brother Vlasis.

As the other family members arrive kisses and laughter ensue. There is a large table set up outside and as we gather around it, Andrea’s mom, Theoni, begins to bring out the food – it’s about 11:30 pm. There are a total of 15 of us including Andreas and I.

For future reference, here is the roll call:

Theoni – Andreas’ Mom
Spyros – Andreas’ Dad
Giorgos – Andreas’ oldest brother
Mari – Giorgos wife
Spyros – Son of Giorgos and Mari
Lydia – Daughter of Giorgos and Mari

Vlasis – brother
Eleferia – (freedom in Greek), his wife
Theano – daughter
Theano’s Nanni, Anna

Nikos – brother
Efie – his wife
Andreas – the newest member of the family!

YUM!
The main course is Gemista Kolokithia, zuchinni stuffed with meat in a lemon sauce. There are also homemade Dolmas, a plate of Peas, Artichokes and tomatoes, Fried potatoes, and a plate of salami. Oh yeah, there is also a five-pound slab of Feta that is being devoured in front of my eyes.

Dessert is a simple fruit salad, however there are a couple of fruits that I have never tasted before. One looks like a large apricot, but tastes like a citrus infused cantaloupe! Yum. It is delicious. We also have some chocolates and pieces of cake. It’s after 1:00 in the morning, and the kids have school tomorrow. Still, we have an after dinner drink and finally head to bed. How is it that everyone here is so skinny?

WOW – the bridge is beautiful at night. It is basically made from cement and white cables. When it is completed, it will be illuminated with blue lights and tonight they are testing them. We admire the bridge before heading to bed. . . .well, actually we will have another couple of drinks before bed as we are wide awake now! Here is one to my sister in-law, Vonda! HAPPY BIRTHDAY FROM GREECE!!! xoxo

Arrival - Tuesday, June 1st

We arrived in Munich – a beautiful airport full of high design. It’s like walking through Limn or a similar modern furniture store. Every garbage bin, magazine rack, store, bar, restaurant and lobby is modern and chic with furniture and fixtures used in the US mainly as accent pieces.

One of my favorite portions of the airport was a smallish lobby with about 8 orb shaped chairs hanging from wires where people nestle in and “float” while talking to each other.

As we approach our gate, I am seeing more and more black hair and dark sunglasses even though we are inside and it is 6:30 pm. Every other person has a cigarette in their hand and is talking on a cell phone. It is setting in . . . next stop, Greece!

2 hours later we make our way through the new airport in Athens and are greeted by Andreas’ brother, Nikos and his wife Efie. The newly constructed freeway is a welcome addition cutting at least an hour off our journey and we zip past Athens and are on our way down through the Peleponese. I can barely keep my eyes open as we drive 2 hours to our home in Arackovitika.

As we pull into the driveway, we can see that a large, ship has anchored in the water in front of the property. Only minutes pass before we are in bed and the sounds of the tiny waves are rocking us to sleep. Even the brightly lit ship illuminating the walls of our bedroom can’t keep us awake.

The Flight - May 31st

It was an easy flight to Munich. We each took 2 Tylenol pm’s and slept the majority of the way there. What a cool plane we flew on! It was a Luftansa commercial plane that was the longest in the world. I didn’t quite realize this until I had to use the restroom. It took at least a minute to walk to the middle of the plane. All of the bathrooms were located on the floor beneath the main cabin where a small lobby is situated surrounded by 10 bathrooms each large enough to hold two, Heh heh heh . . no comments please.

I'm Leaving for Greece!

Andreas and I are packed up and ready to go! We leave at 9:30 tonight and arrive in Athens via Munich tomorrow night at 11 pm! Then Andrea's brother Nikkos will pick us up and drive us to Patras which is about a 2 hour drive! I'll keep this blog updated as often as I can, but most likely once or twice a week! Feel free to add your comments, I'd love to hear from you! Remember, this is a family site - no Tom Foolery except my own . . . kidding! Oh yeah, one more thing, HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM! xoxoxoxo